Workshop

The Framing inspection has just been done on the new workshop. The Gambrel Roof is beyond the experience of the local inspectors so I have asked the experienced Engineer Jiri Titchy to design a compromise framing solution that will satisfy the local inspectors. A few 2by4s in the right place and all will be well. Jiri is the best!

Foam

It looks like P.E. or Polyethylene Foam is going to be the flotation of choice for the next hull, since it is the "Green" choice. Long strips laminated will give the appropriate shapes. Alternatives would be nice.

Flotation

The deck of the new kayak needs some ridged flotation. The main reason for this is to deflect water that is sloshing around inside the hull away from the gunwales at the top. I have noted an unpleasant effect in big waves when the kayak has taken on water through a battered-in spray-skirt. If the seas suddenly roll the hull from one side to the other, the bilge water launches itself as far upward and out-board as it can. This can easily pass the tipping-point and over it goes. With ridged flotation the inside profile of the kayak can be shaped to deflect the surging bilge water inboard and down.
The trick now is to find insulation that is bio-degradable. Styrofoam is no good. Cork would work but it is costly. Papyrus has been suggested. What else?

Waves

Talking to Russ Parker about hulls (Hard Chines vs Soft Chines) we determined that there are significant advantages in terms of secondary stability having more stringers on a skin-on-frame hull. There is no question that you get better low speed planing and a more aggressive "cut" on wave fronts with a hard chine. When dealing with very rough water I am prepared to sacrifice a little speed and manoeuvrability in exchange for my survival. You may have to paddle like mad to plane on the soft chine, but if you surf it is easy to get up to 10 knots and fly. With a soft chine you still have the "grab" of a lapstrake hull when you quarter the seas but the skin-on-frame gives you lift as well. We are talking about simple waves. There are no simple waves when you approach shore. When the wave fronts suddenly become vertical, by clapotis or wind, designing a hull to rise-up or plough-through becomes pre-eminent. Many of the plastic boats I see have upturned snouts, to give the paddler a greater sense of security in waves. It has been my experience that when you head into 3 meter breakers it's like running your upper torso into a brick-wall whether the bow lifts or it doesn't. I have found that with a flattened, surfboard-like prow and a soft chine you emerge balanced and ready to set-up for the next wave again and again until you are clear of the breakers. N.B. having a decent neoprene cowl doesn't hurt! There must be a sacrifice of tertiary stability. On a windward shore my solution has always been to swim ashore and wait for your kayak. Otherwise the high primary and secondary stability make rolling extremely difficult, but bailing-out and re-mounting are realativly easy. N.B. Leashes don't hurt either!

Approved Paddles

So I'm going ahead with production of "Festival" paddles (not approved for World Class competition. I will make slight modifications and re-submit these paddles to the I.D.B.F. for full World Class certification. In the mean time anyone looking for a light, warm, flexible oiled-wooden Dragon-Boat paddle ; I will hand carve you one to your length for $85.00 plus tax & shipping. Discount if you come to the shop to pick it up.

Kaboganing

Conditions were too stickey for good kaboganing at Twin Rivers. The run was slow and I broke a paddle. It was worth seeing K.F. do a full 360 cartwheel in a vortex of snow.

White Deer Design

The lines of the next Kayak are made for survival in comfort on the roughest waters. The hull also allows for packing lots of gear below the waterline. It is a tripping, surf riding kayak.
I have found nothing more frustrating than heading out into a gale, deciding to retreat and then not being able to come-about. This becomes extremely annoying in narrow, rocky passages. This hull defaults to running downwind in heavy weather.
A medly of Eskimo hull design features make it possible to ride and track the swells in comfort. It will be possible to hang-up your paddle, open the storage hatch, pull out a Kleenex and wipe your nose in heavy swells and wind.
All this and a rudder too.

Dragon Boat Paddles

Finally word has arrived from the IDBF regarding my Dragon Boat Paddle submission. It is what I expected, but it is not what I was hoping for. The reasons are debatable and can be overcome by compromising the design slightly.
As it stands they can be approved as Festival paddles for use on all IDBF races except World and Club Crew Championships.
So it's back to the old drawing board.
I am happy that they passed the hand-grips.